Developing on 2 a long time of climbing, I’ve by no means been severely injured. I chalk it as much as persistently protected practices, nice climbing companions, and numerous luck. I’ve a couple of associates who haven’t been so fortunate. They stay with life-altering spinal accidents, partial paralysis, and persistent ache. These are a results of the commonest climbing accident — rappelling or being lowered off the top of the rope.
I’ve seen it occur to seasoned veterans and new climbers alike. And I’m satisfied that when you don’t tie knots on the finish of your rope habitually, each time, it may possibly occur to anybody.
The Trango Agility 9.1 climbing rope takes a crack at this downside with its “red flag treatment.” The final 5 m of every finish is brilliant purple to point when the top of the rope is approaching because it slides by way of the belay system.
Whereas there isn’t a substitute for a knot, that is no gimmick. I discovered the purple ends are super-effective at rising consciousness in regards to the approaching rope ends. After 6 months of utilizing the rope on the crag and on multipitch climbs, I found a couple of different rad benefits of the purple flag remedy, too. Oh, and the Agility 9.1 has the dealing with and sturdiness to rival any of my favourite ropes.
Briefly: This rope is a good possibility for redpoints or alpine climbing because of its sturdiness and low weight (56 g/m). The purple flag remedy actually provides an necessary security function I might be comfortable to see adopted throughout the trade.
To see how the Agility stacks up towards the competitors, take a look at GearJunkie’s information to the most effective climbing ropes.
“Red Flag” remedy has brilliant colours to establish ends for security
Triple-rated for single, half, and twin rope use
Tighter 1×1 weave for sturdiness
No everlasting center marker
Costly
Matt Bento
Trango Agility Duo Dry 9.1 Evaluation
Really feel
9.1 mm is nicely throughout the realm of being a “skinny rope,” which usually ranges from 8.9 mm to 9.4 mm. Producers have just a little leeway with this measurement, and generally, two ropes of the identical acknowledged diameter gained’t really feel the identical. The weave and sheath proportion may have an effect on how a rope feels within the hand.
To me, the Trango Agility 9.1 seems like a “fat” 9.1, that means I’ve used 9.2 ropes (just like the Sterling Aero) that really feel thinner. This isn’t a knock towards the Agility in any respect. The primary time I used this rope, it caught and held simply with a Petzl Grigri. Different skinny ropes slid by way of, particularly once they have been model new.
As I’ve been climbing with the Agility during the last 6 months, it has fuzzed out minimally. But it surely nonetheless felt supple and simple to pay out slack by way of a Grigri.
Testing the Trango Agility 9.1; (photograph/Miya Tsudome)
Weight
When contemplating weight, grams per meter (g/m) is the quantity to have a look at, not diameter. The Agility 9.1 is a good 56 g/m, the identical as the favored Sterling Aero 9.2.
I shouldered a 70m size of this rope into the Excessive Sierra for alpine climbing a handful of instances this summer time and out and in of the Owen River Gorge numerous instances this winter. I’m glad it’s not any heavier. The low weight was particularly appreciated on longer sport climbing pitches after I wanted to tug up your entire weight of the rope to make a clip.
The Crimson Flag Therapy
Trango weaves the ultimate 5 m of each ends of the sheath in brilliant purple. This caught some eyes, elicited many feedback from different climbers … and began conversations about security! The intense purple delivered the message, “Oh shit, here comes the end of the rope.” And there have been another benefits to this function that weren’t instantly obvious.
I at all times tie a giant double figure-eight on the finish of my rope after untying it and throwing it again right into a pile on my rope tarp. This makes discovering the top simpler. The intense purple ends are even simpler to seek out, notably after unpacking the rope from the rope bag.
Although skinny and light-weight, the Agility 9.1 didn’t slip by way of a grigri, not even the primary time I used it; (photograph/Miya Tsudome)
On a multipitch, generally the belayer will name out how a lot rope is left so the chief can begin in search of a spot to construct the subsequent belay. Most instances, the belayer is filled with it, wildly guessing at how a lot rope they nonetheless should pay out. However 5 meters is 5 meters, and when the rope reached that time, there was no extra guessing.
And when rappelling, it was a lot simpler to see the place the rope ends landed. Plus, I had a 5m body of reference down there if I used to be attempting to guess distances.
Sturdiness
After utilizing the Trango Agility 9.1 for about 6 months, put on and tear has been pretty minimal, and I used to be not form to this rope. I used it on a couple of multipitch climbs and took many falls whereas sport climbing. My residence crag is the Owens River Gorge, a volcanic basalt space the place the bottom of each cliff is roofed in nice mud.
Once you stroll out of the gorge, you’re filthy, no getting round it. I examined the dry-treated model of this rope, and whereas I by no means had to make use of it moist, the dry remedy helped hold mud from working its manner into the rope’s sheath.
Many falls will put on out the ends of your rope. The Crimson Flag Therapy makes put on and tear additional seen; (photograph/Matt Bento)
After a lot use, yellow fibers started to indicate by way of the top of the rope I tied into most ceaselessly. At first, I used to be bummed that the purple flag remedy appeared to be carrying off, although the top might nonetheless be simply differentiated from the remainder of the rope.
Upon nearer inspection, I discovered that the sheath had almost worn by way of on the place the place probably the most yellow appeared. One other security good thing about the Crimson Flag Therapy? Supposed or unintended?
Both manner, my eyes have been drawn to the purpose of most put on. I had my accomplice tie into the opposite finish of the rope. Later, I chopped the rope on the worn part (about 3 m in). The near-core shot would have occurred with nearly any rope. I had been climbing brief, bouldery routes with fastened attracts, and never numerous rope was out, and I fell many instances.
It’s necessary to notice with Agility 9.1, when you chop an finish off, your purple “warning track” will probably be shorter and could be completely different from the opposite finish of the rope.
Gripes
The 70m dry-treated Agility 9.1 I examined retails for $450. Whereas I’m very glad with the efficiency and sturdiness of this rope, that’s an actual hit to the pockets. I’m unfamiliar with what’s concerned in making use of the Crimson Flag Therapy, however apparently, it ain’t low-cost.
This rope has a black center marker. Very similar to each center marker on each rope I’ve used, it fades pretty rapidly. How a few Crimson Flag center marker?
At 56 g/m, the Agility 9.1 is an efficient rope for lengthy pitches; (photograph/Miya Tsudome)
The Verdict
The load and diameter of the Trango Agility 9.1 is about good for me. More often than not, after I’m climbing, I’m main, not top-roping, and I favor a thin rope. I might need a thicker rope if I have been top-roping or support climbing.
Whereas the Crimson Flag Therapy provides to the worth, I feel it’s a really cool and efficient security function. When you’re available in the market for a thin twine and the worth doesn’t hassle you, get this rope.
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December 10, 2024
